For several reasons I have to leave my bigger heli projects and I decided to get on with something with the PHT2 I bought. I decided on a 212 as I have a calendar with a beautifully painted one and am going to try and copy that color scheme. All will be revealed later. So I ordered a 212 for the Extreme from Joe and when it arrived I got stuck in. This is what I found when I opened the box Very pretty and very small in comparison to my other models. I should be able to handle this one by my self which will no doubt be a relief to Darrell. It's not going to be a super scaler, I want a model I can fly a lot without worrying about damaging it and I don't want to spend months building it. I have 2 other ongoing projects for that. The first job was to set up the turbine. I added lots of parts from my junk box. Started with an Extreme rotor head and ancilliaries and then I found some 8711 servos and metal servo arms. A quick search of my push rod box found suitable length rods and new ends got the servos installed. Then I had to set up the headspeed. It is adjustable, but only within limits and I am stuck with 1500-1700 rpm. I opted for 1500 to start with, which leaves the turbine at the bottom of its power band, but I don't want it turning the head too fast. Its a long time since I set a headspeed greater than 1000 rpm. I'll be using 700mm blades plus or minus a bit.
This thing is starting to look better and better. I spent the weekend building up the wooden base which supports the extreme mechanics and tried the turbine in their place
The tail drive lines up perfectly and will make a nice straight run. The only problem is going to be in the exhaust but I am sure Tam will be able to fix that.Some pix for you
The 60 motor sits at the front of the frames, where I have chopped them off. They are pretty much the same height and width. The main difference is the weight is the back on the turbine and the front on the 60 Wooden chassis tacked up Two top panels dropped on the top for now. I will have to fabricate some right angle brackets and then fit some blind nuts before I glue the top sheets in place. The square hole is for the cooling air from the fan shroud. I will probably cover that all up with the cockpit floor once it is in.Back to work. The hole in the front was enlarged so the nose fitted easily, then the chassis was trimmed so the nose would pass it when I finally assembled it. I wanted to leave it open until the last minute as it will make it very easy for access and also I will be able to assemble the floor etc in the nose before fitting it.
The chassis is fitted firmly to the fiberglass with PFM and will get another filler coat tomorrow. The main suspension points are the two small box sections where the mechanics are bolted to and I wont be using them so I will make sure everything is well glued in. Then I will fit the two extra pieces of ply on the top and add the right angle brackets with blind nuts in them, to hold the mechanics in place The tail rotor gearbox was assembled and so was the 40 degree gearbox. Once I have the glue in tomorrow I can start aligning everything up and fitting out the tail boom.Work has been proceeding despite the silence. Its mostly the boring assembly stuff which is common to most helicopters so I haven't gone into great detail over it. The first thing I dd was to find some way of getting the tail drive out of the turbine. Jetcat have supplied a driveshaft which is only 5mm diameter and none of varios stock items are this size. Fortunately the bottomless junk box revealed a coupling I had made earlier which had a steel sleeve fitted into the plastic coupler and it was bored out to exactly 5mm.
The next job was fitting the tail rotor gearbox to the fin, drill a big hole and apply lots of Hysol. I dug deep into the junk box and found this plastic bellcrank. Vario supplied a wire pushrod which fits into a plastic tube which fits into an aluminum tube. I preferred carbon push rods and once I had worked out the geometry cut some to fit. The bellcrank was mounted on a couple of ply offcuts and glued into place with 5minute Hysol Then the intermediate gearbox is fixed to its wooden mounting plate, lined up and glued in place with more Hysol The bungee cords are holding the tailboom in place while the Hysol sets. Now I have the driveshaft and the pushrod in the main tub and can work out the mounting of the mechanics and the tail servo.I have cut a hole in the woodwork around the chassis to accommodate the fuel tank. Then I added a couple of pieces of scrap wood to it to help firm the tanks location
This is how the fuel tanks fit, one on each side The tail rotor servo was fitted into its little chassis and the hole in the bulkhead widened to clear the pushrod The tail drive was cut to length and the bearing holder fixed with some PFM. I love this stuff. It fixes very strongly, but if I want to move the holder, I can do it fairly easily. The driveshaft comes in at a slight angle and wear on the inside of the dogbone coupler is a concern so I will keep an eye on it. If it starts to become a problem I will tip the mechanics forward so the back end is at the right height and then reposition the bearing holder in the bulkhead. Fixing the top of the mechanics to the fuselage is a bit of a problem and I have decided the easiest way is to brace from the servo tray to the sides. So I fitted some extra wooden supports just inside the door frame to stiffen the fuselage up.Now, I am getting closer. Instead of sending me an exhaust, Tam has sent me a picture. No doubt this is to justify the enormous cost of this work of art :laugh:
I'll be on his case as soon as he gets out of bed. I think next day air will be a tiny price to pay in comparison to the cost of the exhaust. Pretty tho isn't it?And here's what it looked like before the run up
Then a sequence of unhappy events occurred. Firstly the turbine was run up on the kerostart and spewed flames. I turned the starting kero level down and then it refused to start at all. I turned it back up a little and the turbine got all mixed up about something and was running 600+ degrees at idle, which ignited the fiberglass round the red hot exhaust. I put the fire out with my Mk1 fire extinguisher, the garden hose. Then I sent it back to Jetcat. Some weeks later I got it back with a note saying there was nothing wrong with it, a few minor adjustments had been made and the ECU upgraded to the latest software, I couldn't get it to start at all. A phone call to Jetcat found the kero injector as burned out. At $200+ a go, I decided to convert back to propane, replumbed it and away we went with no problems. Well except one. The new software only allowed 2 headspeeds, 1550 and 1680. I selected the lower of the two
I have it flying, but I am unhappy with the tail response. The tail is very twitchy and I hate that. I used a 770 gyro and an 8900g servo for the first time and this mornings job is to rip it out and fit a 502 and maybe a different servo. Then I'll try and get another test flight in but we are promised 30 mph winds this afternoon and storms tonight into the weekend. So I gotta get on it, but its close to being ready to finish and paint. The other worry I have is the tail rotor gearbox is getting very hot in the hover and that is due to the exhaust hitting it. It's getting up to about 60C after a 7-8 minute hover and I have to decide whether I want to do something about it or wait until I get it into FF and see if it is cooler when moving. So, the development continues...............
An update on the 212 progress. I have 4 problems to solve with this installation. 1) Loose tail 2) Overheating tail box 3) Unstable head laterally 4) Unstable head vertically I have been working on the unstable tail in high winds and not succeeding, but this weekend and for the first 2 days we had 83 degree temperatures, blue skies and totally flat calm. The only ripples on the surface of my lake were from duck farts. I pulled the 770/8900 combo and replaced it with a 502/94758 and that improved things. The 770/8900 went into a Trex 500 I had built and worked perfectly. Then I went through the whole tail linkage and removed any play and added a 1/4" CF plate to the back of the vertical fin as a stiffener in replacement for the soft wood Vario supplied in the kit. I dropped the gain by using a medium output arm on the servo and a long arm on the TR pitch lever, and then I set the TX gain so the gyro gain was 100% Bingo, no wag and pretty smooth. Next I fitted a Y diverter to the turbine to check and see if the exhaust was really causing the box to overheat. Temperature dropped from 65C to 35C so the exhaust will go back to Tam for some upgrades. First I want to get the rest of the model finished and flying and ready for paint so I can get on with the paint while I await the exhaust. The model was moving around constantly, wind or no wind, and it was impossible to hold in one place and flying the Trex 500 reminded me how stable a heli should be. So, I changed the rotor head for a Cuatro one which is one of the best rotor heads I have lying around. While I was at it I removed the 3 8711's and put in 4 Align 810's so I could use the Cuatro system 88 swashplate. Several test flights ensued. First I stopped and put the blades and paddles on the other way round Then I stopped and reversed the washout Then I stopped and put the blades back on the the first way round and flipped the blade holders and flybar pickup points Yep, changing from RH to LH rotation isn't as simple as I first thought. That improved the stability significantly but the helicopter was still too unstable for me so I added more lead in the nose to get it level. There's now 4lbs in there. Now it was a lot more stable. A video of the flight at this stage is here 212hd.avi It wont be there long as it takes up too much space, around 25 megs. Its only a short video for 2 reasons, one the tail box was getting hot and two, the sun was in my eyes as I forgot my sunglasses Now I have to solve the problem of the vertical instability, which will be simple in comparison requiring an s shaped pitch curve and some nice heavy paddles, but that's for when the weather gets warmer again as its only 74 today and its too cold to do any flying
I found that There was a resonance at full rpm which worried me. It sounded like the center bearing had come out of the drive shaft and the driveshaft was whipping around in the tailboom. I spent a lot of time messing with this and in the end replaced the couplers with the Vario large steel ones. I fitted a new driveshaft, rebuild the 45 degree gearbox and rebuilt the tail rotor gearbox. Then I fitted some new tail blades. The sound went away so it was one of those things. Now it flies pretty good and as I am gaining confidence I tried a 5 minute flight moving it around a lot. The tail rotor gearbox stayed cool. It only gets hot in the hover! I have built another tail rotor gearbox to go on the correct side of the vertical stab and I am still dialling everything in, but this is all in the radio and undoubtedly will change after paint and a cockpit etc are fitted. Now its on to the boring bit of sanding and filling.
ok boring bit over, now it's the messy bit. I have sanded and filled all the parts and then given it a coat of primer from a rattle can. The reason for doing this is that it has been too cold to go outside and set up my spray booth to do 2 part primer, so I primed the small parts in my indoor spray booth and rushed outside for several quick coats on the rest of the body. Then a good wet sanding with 600 grit to get a nice smooth finish followed by a few hundred rivets. Then its off to the paint booth.
You may be surprised that the first color to go on is a complete coat of blue when the only blue parts are some stripes here and there, but all will be revealed as we progress. Thanks to Joe Howard for this way of doing it, it uses a lot of paint but makes the job much easier. Notice the thermometer shows a massive 60 degrees inside the spray booth. Setting up was cold work.
Well, that was a mistake! I asked for that color of paint, without specifying it had to be base coat/ clear coat. I just squirted it on and covered everything with 2 coats, not really bothering about it as I knew it was going to get rubbed down before it was masked or sprayed over. As you can see from the picture, the result is very shiny, and apart from one or two minor spots, it has come out as one of the best paint jobs I have ever done. So, it's staying blue.
The next problem was to find a subject which was also blue and fortunately I found one which was a pretty good match, so it will be one of them. More to come, but not soon, as this is a single stage paint, it will take a while to get fully hard. I found this out when I masked off the nose to paint a satin black area and the masking left marks in the paint which will need to be polished out. Nothing dramatic, but I'm in no hurry to mess it up
After some time letting it dry, I fitted the windows and doors, and the reinstalled the mechanics. The electronics went under the cockpit floor and I decided to use LiPo batteries which also went under there, but with the balancer leads brought out near the charge jacks. Extra screws were fitted in to hold the top deck in place as the original molding was pretty bad. Anyway, here's how it turned out
Getting the RAPATTACK logo was difficult but with the help of a fellow modeler from Canada called Paul, I finally got a reasonable copy
I had fitted a prototype lighting system I am having developed to sell. It will have a double strobe light, beacon and switchable landing light as well as 4 sets of navigation lights. You can see these lights well in daylight
A quick test hover in strong winds showed it still flies and its very difficult to keep in one place, but I guess I'll enjoy flying it around. I'm going to fit some heavier blades on for the weekend so I will see how it flies then. 1600rpm on the main rotor still scares the crap out of me as I'm used to 900 rpm, but it seems to be holding together so far. I'll try and post a video if I get to fly it this weekend.
Adding heavier scale blades certainly helped, and I took 2 lbs of lead out of the nose to try and slow it down in forward flight.,It didn't make any difference. What I traded off in nose weight I gained in thrust from the exhaust
The next task was to make an instrument panel for it and I had bought a 3D printer so I set to work.
The bad news is.....you cant see any of the dials from outside the helicopter and you cant get your head inside, but I know it looks good so I am happy
A video of it flying is on you tube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbOYhfla0PE